Use this tubeless sealant calculator to find the exact amount of sealant for your tyre size and brand. Enter your wheel diameter, tyre width, and preferred sealant. The calculator estimates the correct tubeless sealant volume based on manufacturer guidelines from Stan's NoTubes, Orange Seal, and Muc-Off.
How much tubeless sealant do I need? It depends on which sealant you own, and the makers do not agree. For a 700c x 28mm road tyre Stan's says 50 ml, Orange Seal 30 to 59 and Muc-Off 30 to 45. For 700c x 40mm gravel Stan's says 60 and Muc-Off 60 to 75, while Orange Seal publishes nothing for gravel at all. For 29" x 2.3" Stan's says 105, Orange Seal 118 and Muc-Off 105 to 140. This page gives you each maker's own printed row rather than one blended number. Top up with about half the original amount when the sealant thins, and pick your wheel and tyre size below.
Shows all three makers' published figures side by side (Stan's NoTubes, Orange Seal, Muc-Off) with a top-up dose with calendar months for when to check and refill.
Inputs
Sealant Recommendation
60 mlper tyre
Stan's NoTubes publishes this for 700c x 40mm, as 60 ml.
What each maker publishes for 700c x 40 mm
Stan's NoTubes60 mlits own row for 700c x 40mm
Orange Sealno published figurethis maker publishes nothing for this size
Muc-Off60 to 75 mlits own row for Cross 700cc
Details
Tyre volume~2770 ml
Top-up amount30 ml per tyre
Top-up intervalevery 3 months
Every figure here is a row from that maker's own guide, reproduced as printed. Nothing is scaled from one brand to another. The makers disagree, and they do not disagree in one direction: Stan's is the most generous of the three on road and on 27.5, and the least generous on 29 inch and on fat tyres, where Orange Seal asks for more. Use the figure from the sealant you actually own.
This calculator is for reference only. The doses are the ones Stan's, Orange Seal and Muc-Off publish, and they do not agree with each other. Always use your own judgement when making equipment decisions.
Every cell is a row from that maker's own published guide, reproduced as printed rather than converted into a house figure. Where a cell says nearest size, that maker does not publish that exact size and this is the closest one it does. Where it says not published, that maker publishes nothing covering it, which is worth knowing before you buy the bottle.
Tyre Size
Stan's NoTubes
Orange Seal
Muc-Off
700c x 25 mm
50 ml (nearest size)
30 to 59 ml
30 to 45 ml
700c x 28 mm
50 ml
30 to 59 ml
30 to 45 ml
700c x 32 mm
55 ml
not published
30 to 45 ml
700c x 35 mm
55 ml (nearest size)
not published
60 to 75 ml
700c x 38 mm
60 ml (nearest size)
not published
60 to 75 ml
700c x 40 mm
60 ml
not published
60 to 75 ml
700c x 45 mm
60 ml (nearest size)
not published
60 to 75 ml
700c x 50 mm
60 ml (nearest size)
not published
60 to 75 ml
650b x 42 mm
80 ml (nearest size)
not published
not published
650b x 47 mm
80 ml
not published
not published
650b x 50 mm
80 ml (nearest size)
not published
not published
27.5" x 2.3"
100 ml
89 ml
60 to 75 ml
27.5" x 2.4"
105 ml
89 ml
60 to 75 ml
27.5" x 2.5"
110 ml
89 ml
60 to 75 ml
27.5" x 2.8"
135 ml (nearest size)
89 ml
60 to 75 ml
27.5" x 3.0"
135 ml
177 to 237 ml
60 to 75 ml
29" x 2.3"
105 ml
118 ml
105 to 140 ml
29" x 2.4"
110 ml
118 ml
105 to 140 ml
29" x 2.5"
125 ml
118 ml
105 to 140 ml
29" x 2.8"
130 ml
118 ml
105 to 140 ml
29" x 3.0"
140 ml
177 to 237 ml
105 to 140 ml
26" x 1.95"
80 ml
89 ml
60 to 75 ml
26" x 2.1"
80 ml (nearest size)
89 ml
60 to 75 ml
26" x 2.3"
80 ml (nearest size)
89 ml
60 to 75 ml
26" x 4"
175 ml
177 to 237 ml
not published
26" x 5"
230 ml
177 to 237 ml
not published
Sources: Stan's NoTubes publishes sixteen size rows and a single figure for each. Orange Seal publishes four rows by discipline, in ounces. Muc-Off publishes five rows by category, in millilitres, one of which is a race category rather than a tyre size and so appears nowhere here. All three call their figures a starting point, and all three note that casings vary between tyre makers.
Where these numbers come from
Sealant quantity is not standardised. No test standard covers it and no governing body publishes a figure, so the only real sources are the makers themselves. Every number on this page is a row from one of their guides, reproduced as printed. Nothing is interpolated between rows, scaled from one brand to another, or averaged across brands.
The makers disagree, and they do not disagree in one direction. Stan's is the most generous of the three on road and on 27.5 inch wheels, and the least generous on 29 inch and on fat tyres, where Orange Seal asks for more. So there is no house figure here and no best brand: take the row belonging to the sealant in your garage.
They also publish at different resolutions, and the page keeps that difference rather than flattening it. Stan's prints sixteen size rows and a single figure for each. Orange Seal prints four rows by discipline in ounces. Muc-Off prints five by category in millilitres. A maker who says 60 to 75 is telling you something a maker who says 60 is not, so a range stays a range.
What each maker leaves out. Orange Seal publishes nothing for gravel and nothing for 650b, so a 700c x 40mm or a 650b x 47mm gets no figure from them. Muc-Off publishes nothing for 650b and nothing for fat tyres, and its Downhill row is a race category rather than a size, so it appears nowhere on this page. Stan's stops at 700c x 40mm and prints nothing wider on a 700c wheel. Where a size falls between a maker's rows, or past the end of them, this page gives that maker's nearest published row and labels it as nearest rather than refusing: too much sealant costs liquid and a little rotating weight, too little costs a puncture that does not seal.
Intervals and top ups. Stan's is the only one of the three that states a schedule: check or refresh quarterly, every three months. The other intervals shown are this site's working figures for makers who publish none. The top up dose of half the original amount is also ours, not published by anyone. More reliable than any fraction is to find out how much liquid is actually left: pull the valve core and draw with a syringe, or unseat one side of the tyre and look.
How it works
Latex Particles Seal Punctures Instantly
Tubeless sealant is a liquid containing latex particles suspended in a carrier fluid. When a sharp object punctures the tyre, the pressurised air forces the liquid toward the hole. The latex particles coagulate on contact with air, forming a plug within seconds.
What it seals
Up to 3 to 4mm: Seals instantly as you ride. You may not even notice.
4 to 6mm: Usually seals but may need a few revolutions to pool at the hole.
Over 6mm: Requires a tyre plug (mushroom plug or bacon strip) and re-inflation.
Sidewall tears: Sealant rarely seals sidewall cuts. These need a plug and boot.
After a puncture
If you hear a slow hiss, rotate the wheel so the puncture faces down and the sealant pools against it. In most cases this seals within 30 seconds. Top up air and continue riding. Check the tyre when you return home.
Carry a CO2 cartridge or pump even with tubeless. Sealant cannot replace lost pressure quickly.
Volume Determines How Much Sealant You Need
The right sealant quantity depends on the whole tyre size, wheel diameter and width together, not on width alone. Stan's puts a 2.3 inch tyre at 105 ml on a 29 inch wheel and 100 ml on a 27.5, because the larger wheel is the larger tyre. Internal volume is what is really being paid for, and it is shown in the result as context, but the figures here are the size rows the makers actually print rather than anything computed from that volume.
Too little sealant
If there is not enough sealant, the tyre interior dries unevenly. Small punctures may not seal because there is not enough liquid to reach the hole under pressure. The dried residue also becomes harder to clean out when re-sealing.
Too much sealant
Excess sealant adds unnecessary rotating weight, which is a significant factor on road wheels. It also dries unevenly in thick clumps, creating wheel balance issues. More is not better beyond the recommended amount.
Road tyres (700c × 25 to 32mm): 40 to 55 ml per tyre
Gravel tyres (700c × 38 to 50mm): 55 to 80 ml per tyre
MTB tyres (29" × 2.2 to 2.5"): 90 to 120 ml per tyre
Tubeless sealant weight
Sealant weighs approximately 1 gram per ml (0.035 oz per ml). On a road bike, 40 ml (1.4 fl oz) per tyre adds 80 g (2.8 oz) of rotating weight total, noticeable for weight-conscious racers, negligible for recreational riders. Do not under-fill to save weight; too little sealant risks unsealed punctures.
Sealant Dries Over 3 to 6 Months
Tubeless sealant is not permanent. The carrier fluid evaporates through the tyre sidewall over time, leaving dried latex residue. How quickly this happens depends on temperature, tyre porosity, and riding frequency. Warm climates and porous casings dry out faster.
How often to replace tubeless sealant by climate
Sealant dries faster in hot, dry climates. Check and top up every 2 months in summer. In cold weather below 5°C (41°F), sealant thickens and flows more slowly to punctures. Some brands (Stan's, Orange Seal) offer winter or cold-weather formulas designed for lower temperatures. If you ride year-round, consider shorter top-up intervals in summer and slightly more sealant in winter.
Sealant maintenance is part of a broader tyre care routine. Check our gravel tyre pressure calculator if you also ride off-road.
How to check sealant level
Shake the wheel: If you hear liquid sloshing, sealant is still active.
Remove valve core: Use a syringe to check. If you draw up liquid, it is fine.
Pull the tyre: Inspect the interior. Dry flakes only means it is time to reseal.
Top up vs full reseal
If you can still draw liquid through the valve, add a top-up dose (about half the original amount). If the sealant has fully dried to flakes, remove the tyre, clean the interior, and do a full reseal with fresh sealant.
Signs your sealant has dried
No liquid sound when shaking the wheel.
A small puncture does not seal and keeps losing air slowly.
Visible dry latex chunks through the valve opening.
Set a calendar reminder when you install sealant. It is easy to forget until you get a puncture that will not seal.
Tubeless Sealant Brand Comparison
The calculator covers four common sealants. Brand differences affect longevity and sealing performance more than the basic tubeless sealant amount per tyre.
Stan's NoTubes: Natural latex base. Fast initial sealing. Dries in 3 to 4 months in typical conditions. Most widely available worldwide. Seals punctures up to ~6mm.
Orange Seal: Higher solid particle concentration. Lasts 4 to 6 months between top-ups. Claims to seal larger punctures than standard latex sealants. Slightly less volume needed per tyre.
Muc-Off: Latex-free formula. Suitable for riders with latex allergies. Seals punctures up to 6mm. Lasts 3 to 5 months. Nano-particle based.
Generic / unbranded: Adequate for small punctures. May dry faster and seal less reliably on larger holes. Lower cost per ml. There is no Generic option in the calculator any more: an unbranded sealant has no published guide, and giving it one brand's figures under a neutral name told you a maker's recommendation while hiding whose it was. If you do not know what is in the bottle, read the three published figures above and take the middle one knowingly rather than being handed it.
Brand choice matters less than using the correct amount and maintaining a regular top-up schedule. The calculator above adjusts recommendations per brand.
All amounts in these answers are in ml. To convert: 30 ml ≈ 1.0 fl oz, 60 ml ≈ 2.0 fl oz, 90 ml ≈ 3.0 fl oz, 120 ml ≈ 4.1 fl oz.
How much tubeless sealant should I put in my tyres?
It depends on the sealant you own, because the makers publish different figures. For 700c x 28mm road: Stan's 50 ml, Orange Seal 30 to 59 ml, Muc-Off 30 to 45 ml. For 700c x 40mm gravel: Stan's 60 ml, Muc-Off 60 to 75 ml, and Orange Seal publishes nothing for gravel. For 29 inch x 2.3 inch: Stan's 105 ml, Orange Seal 118 ml, Muc-Off 105 to 140 ml. The amount depends on the whole tyre size, wheel diameter and width together, not on width alone. Too little means punctures may not seal; too much adds weight. Use the figure from your own brand.
How often should I top up tubeless sealant?
Most sealants need topping up every 3 to 6 months. Latex-based sealants (Stan's NoTubes, Orange Seal) dry faster in hot, dry conditions and may need checking every 2 to 3 months in summer. Check by removing the valve core and inserting a thin wire. If liquid coats the wire, sealant is still active. Dried sealant appears as white crumble inside the tyre. Top up with half the original amount when refilling.
What is the difference between tubeless sealant brands?
Stan's NoTubes uses natural latex and seals most punctures quickly but dries relatively fast (3 to 4 months). Orange Seal is more concentrated and claims longer life (4 to 6 months) with slightly less volume needed. Muc-Off Tubeless Sealant is latex-free (better for latex allergies) and claims to seal larger holes. Unbranded sealants work adequately for smaller punctures but may not handle larger cuts, and none of them publish a quantity guide. The three makers here do not agree on quantity either: at 29 inch by 2.3 Stan's says 105 ml, Orange Seal 118 and Muc-Off 105 to 140, so use the figure belonging to the sealant you actually bought.
What size holes can tubeless sealant seal?
Tubeless sealant reliably seals punctures up to approximately 4 to 6mm diameter. Small thorns, glass fragments, and wire typically seal instantly as you continue riding. You may not even notice. Larger cuts (6 to 12mm) sometimes seal with multiple rotations of the wheel or by pressing the tyre against the ground. Cuts above 10 to 15mm usually require a tyre plug before sealant can seal them. Sidewall cuts are much harder to seal than tread punctures.
How do I set up tubeless tyres at home?
A complete tubeless tire setup needs a tubeless-ready rim and tyre, tubeless rim tape, a tubeless valve, sealant, and a high-volume pump or compressor. Tape the rim bed carefully, overlapping and airtight. Install the valve. Mount the tyre dry. Pour sealant through the valve hole (remove the valve core first). Reinstall the valve core. Inflate quickly to seat the bead. This often requires a floor pump with a large chamber or a CO2 cartridge for the initial seating. Rotate to distribute sealant. Once your tubeless tyres are sealed, set the correct pressure with our tyre pressure calculator.
Can I use any tyre and rim for tubeless?
No. Both the rim and tyre must be tubeless-ready (marked TR, TLR, or TCS). Standard clincher rims lack the bead hooks designed to hold tubeless pressure. Standard clincher tyres have porous casing that sealant cannot fill. Using non-tubeless-ready components is dangerous: the tyre can blow off the rim. Check both components for tubeless compatibility markings before attempting a tubeless setup.
How do I know if my tubeless sealant has dried out?
Remove the valve core and insert a thin zip tie, spoke, or wire into the valve hole. Rotate the wheel so the valve is at the bottom. Pull out the wire. If it is coated with milky or yellowish liquid, sealant is still active. If the wire comes out dry or with white flakes, the sealant has dried. You can also squeeze the tyre walls: dried sealant creates stiff patches or rattling when you shake the wheel. Top up immediately if sealant is low or dry.
What happens if I run tubeless without enough sealant?
With insufficient sealant, small punctures will not seal and you will lose air rapidly. The tyre may also be more prone to burping at low pressure because the bead area is not adequately coated. In cold weather, sealant moves to one side of the tyre and may not reach a puncture quickly enough. Always use the recommended amount and check sealant levels every 3 months. Carry a plug kit and CO2 for punctures that sealant cannot seal.