Carabiner Retirement Calculator

Based on UIAA Standard 121 guidelines for connector age, usage, and damage.

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For reference only. UIAA 121 maximum guidelines. Metal components can fail without visible warning after shock loading. When in doubt, retire it.

UIAA maximum carabiner age

UsageMax age
Never used10 years
Rarely (few times/yr)10 years
Monthly7 years
Weekly5 years
Daily2 years

Source: UIAA Standard 121 — Connector Inspection & Retirement

Also useful: Check rope retirement → · Check harness retirement →

Carabiner safety explained

UIAA Standard 121 — Connectors

UIAA Standard 121 (and EN 12275) defines the minimum strength, gate locking, and marking requirements for climbing carabiners and connectors. Every carabiner sold for climbing bears CE marking and must pass independent laboratory testing.

Key strength ratings

  • Major axis (gate closed) — minimum 20 kN for standard carabiners
  • Major axis (gate open) — minimum 7 kN (the weakest position)
  • Minor axis — minimum 7 kN (cross-loaded)

Gate types

  • Screw gate (manual lock) — must be manually locked; can be used unlocked accidentally
  • Auto-lock (twist, push-twist, ball lock) — spring-loaded to self-close and lock
  • Keylock nose — smooth nose that does not snag on bolts or webbing

A carabiner is only as strong as its weakest state — gate open, minor axis, or cross-loaded. Always ensure the gate is closed and locked before loading.

Frequently asked questions

When should I retire a carabiner?

Retire a carabiner immediately if: the gate does not snap shut and lock reliably; there are grooves deeper than approximately 1mm from rope or webbing wear; there is visible corrosion, cracking, or deformation; or after any severe shock load (fall factor above 1). Also retire based on UIAA age guidelines: 2 years daily use, 5 years weekly, 7 years monthly, 10 years maximum.

Can a carabiner fail without visible damage?

Yes. Aluminium alloy carabiners can develop internal micro-cracks after severe shock loading that are invisible to surface inspection but significantly reduce load capacity. This is why retirement after any severe shock load (factor fall above 1) is recommended regardless of appearance.

What is a shock load on a carabiner?

A shock load occurs when a rope or sling suddenly becomes taut under a falling load. The peak force in the carabiner can be 3–4× the static weight of the load, lasting only milliseconds. A severe shock load occurs when the fall factor exceeds 1.0 — the carabiner experiences forces approaching or exceeding its design limits.

Are scratched carabiners safe to use?

Surface scratches from rock contact do not affect a carabiner's strength — they are cosmetic. What matters is the gate function, any grooves from rope wear on the spine, and any deformation. A heavily scratched carabiner with a smooth spine and perfectly functioning gate is safe to use within its age limits.

How often should I inspect carabiners?

Inspect carabiners before every climbing session. Test the gate: open and close it firmly to confirm it snaps shut instantly and locks completely. Run your thumb along the inside of the spine to feel for rope wear grooves. Look for corrosion (white powder on aluminium is superficial; pitting or black corrosion is cause for retirement).

Can I clean a carabiner?

Yes. Rinse with fresh water to remove salt, sand, and grit. Use mild soap if needed. Open the gate fully while rinsing to flush the hinge mechanism. Dry thoroughly before storage — moisture in the gate spring mechanism accelerates corrosion. A drop of silicone lubricant on the gate hinge can help, but avoid getting lubricant on the gate nose or spine where rope contact occurs.