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Ski Touring Skin Care Calculator

Check if your climbing skins need cleaning, re-gluing, or replacement.

Skin age (years)

Ski days per season

Skin type

Glide performance

Grip performance

Glue condition

out of 100

Clean skins

Skins need cleaning to restore glide and grip.

Estimated total use: ~20 touring days

Use skin cleaner (Pomoca Clean'n'Glide or Holmenkol Skin Cleaner).

Remove dirt with a soft brush, wipe with a lint-free cloth.

Let dry completely before storing.

Apply skin wax if using in wet or warm snow conditions.

Score	Status	Action
0–20	Good condition	Clean every 3–5 days
20–40	Clean skins	Clean to restore glide and grip
40–65	Re-glue	Re-gluing or re-skinning needed
65–85	Replace soon	Plan replacement this season
85–100	Replace now	Do not tour — replace first

Based on manufacturer guidelines from Pomoca, Kohla, Black Diamond and G3 climbing skins

How skin condition is assessed

Climbing skins attach to the ski base and provide uphill grip via directional fibres (mohair or nylon)
Mohair: fastest glide, softest feel, 80–100 ski day lifespan — preferred for performance touring
Nylon: best grip, 150+ days, lower glide — ideal for steep terrain and beginners
Mix (mohair-nylon): best all-round balance, 120–130 days, most popular choice
Glue degrades with heat, dirt and age — store folded glue-to-glue in a mesh bag

Frequently asked questions

How do I know when to replace climbing skins?

Replace climbing skins when the fibres are visibly worn flat, grip fails on moderate slopes regardless of cleaning, or the glue can no longer be re-applied to the skin backing. A mohair skin typically lasts 80–100 touring days, a mix skin 120–130 days, and a nylon skin 150+ days. Performance degradation — not just age — is the primary indicator.

Can I re-glue climbing skins myself?

Yes. Re-gluing is a straightforward process: remove old glue with a glue remover (Pomoca, Holmenkol), let the backing dry fully, apply fresh skin glue in thin even coats, and allow 24 hours to cure. Kits from Pomoca, Kohla and Black Diamond are widely available. A ski shop can also do it if you prefer professional application.

Why do my skins ice up in cold conditions?

Icing happens when wet snow or water gets under the fibres and refreezes. It is most common at temperatures near 0 °C or when crossing wet snow sections. Prevention: apply a skin wax (e.g. Toko Skin Proof, Nixwax Skin Proof) to the fibres before touring, and pre-warm skins against your body in very cold conditions so the glue makes better contact with the base.

What is the difference between mohair and nylon skins?

Mohair fibres come from angora goats and are naturally hydrophobic, which makes them glide much better than nylon on hard or cold snow. They are however softer and wear faster — 80–100 days vs 150+ for nylon. Nylon skins grip more aggressively and last longer but create noticeably more drag on flat or slightly downhill terrain. Mix skins (mohair-nylon blend) are the most popular compromise.

How should I store climbing skins between seasons?

Fold skins glue-to-glue, place in a mesh or fabric bag (not plastic, which traps moisture), and store at room temperature in a dry location. Avoid hot areas such as car boots or attics — heat causes the glue to melt and migrate into the fibres, which ruins adhesion. Do not freeze skins for extended periods as this also degrades the glue.

Can I use skins on any ski?

Skins must be sized to your ski width. Measure the width at the tip, waist and tail; the skin should cover the base fully with 2–3 mm clearance from each edge. Tip and tail attachments must be compatible with your ski's shovel shape and tail notch — many manufacturers offer universal clips, but some shapes (very wide tails, pin-hole systems) need specific attachment kits.

Also useful: DIN Binding Calculator → · Ski Boot Flex Calculator →